Category Rain Barrels & Water Storage

Visible tank algae is removed fastest by draining, scrubbing, rinsing, and blocking light. Chemical treatment alone may leave debris and underlying causes behind.

Control algae without chlorine by blocking light, removing nutrients, cleaning surfaces, and considering peroxide, ozone, UV, or labeled algaecides for the use.

Rain-barrel replacement parts include spigots, bulkheads, gaskets, screens, lids, diverters, hoses, overflow fittings, connectors, and stands. Match sizes carefully.

Use insect-proof mesh around one millimeter or finer on inlets, overflows, and vents. Balance mosquito exclusion with flow, clogging, strength, and cleaning.

Boiling is a dependable way to kill E. coli in water; sunlight is less predictable. Learn what heat can disinfect and why removal and testing may still matter.

Many rain-barrel spigots use 3/4-inch pipe threads, but NPT, hose thread, and bulkhead sizes differ. Identify both sides before choosing fittings or adapters.

Size a house pressure pump from peak flow, required pressure, elevation, pipe losses, water source, and duty cycle. A typical GPM range is only a starting point.

Size a rain-barrel diverter hose to the diverter outlet and barrel inlet—not barrel capacity. Check inside diameter, routing, slope, and overflow flow.

When buying a rain barrel, compare capacity, footprint, opaque material, lid and screen, spigot access, overflow, diverter compatibility, base, and cleaning access.

Choose a rain gauge with readable markings, suitable capacity, stable mounting, and a well-shaped collector. Consider accuracy, overflow, siting, and maintenance.